Climbing Season

Denali’s West Buttress Route

The first successful summit party of 2024 returned to the lowlands this past week.

Currently there are 261 climbers on The Mountain, with 952 having registered to attempt Denali this summer.

There is no “best” time to climb Denali, although May – June are the most popular. One never knows what the weather will be on Denali. Winter ascents are attempted, but are rare.

There are several possible routes, but 90% of climbers choose the West Buttress Route. It is common to spend 17-18 days on a summit trip, depending on experience, weather and group size.

Most climb in groups of 5-6. No groups larger than 12 are allowed.

The Muldrow Glacier Route was the northern counterpart to West Buttress and was considered the less technical route, but that changed with the Muldrow Glacier surge in 2021. Currently the glacier appears impassable from the air.

Photos credit: Denali National Park and Preserve

About icefogger

Just a basic, down to Earth, laid back type of guy here, who loves the outdoors, the indoors, jazz on the turntable, a fire in the woodstove, the northern lights blazing across the sky, and the company of good friends. View all posts by icefogger

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