Tag Archives: Yukon

Alaska Highway Closed


Lower Post, British Columbia; Photo credit: CBC/Danni Carpenter

The Alaska Highway has been closed due to an aggressive fire just south of the Yukon border in British Columbia. The community of Lower Post, BC has been evacuated. The town of Watson Lake is taking in displaced residents and stranded travelers.

The fire, which is believed to have been started by lightening, is approximately 4000 hectares in size. There were 14 firefighters and an air tanker working the fire as of the last update. Heavy equipment is currently being used to protect the community of Lower Post. The fire is not contained, and the highway is expected to be closed for several days. The road is closed at KM 823 near Coal River to KM 968 near the Yukon border.

The Alaska Highway has also been closed at KM 133 near Wonowan, BC and KM 454 near Fort Nelson, as well as between Fort Nelson and the Laird River.

Travelers can still drive to/from the Yukon using the Stewart Cassiar Highway. It’s a route I highly recommend! Absolutely beautiful country, but the services are even more limited than on the Alcan. I once took the Cassiar while driving a ’73 VW Beetle, so don’t be discouraged, although I suggest bringing an extra five gallons of fuel.

We are in a wet, bubble up here in Alaska, so the news that the Alcan is closed due to fire, came as a bit of a surprise. We had an inch of rain at my place yesterday alone, and the high on Saturday was 55 degrees. Our normal high this time of year is in the low 70’s. Currently, August 2018 has seen 3.54″ of rain fall in Fairbanks, which stands at the 10th wettest August on record.

Alaska had 399,000 acres burn this fire season, which is lower than the past three years. The total is 40% lower than the median over the past two decades.


Theft in the Yukon


Credit: The Downtown Hotel’s Facebook page

The Toe has been stolen. The Sourdough Saloon, located in the Downtown Hotel of Dawson City, has been robbed of one of it’s famed toes. People travel from around the globe to partake in the saloon’s signature drink: The Sourtoe Cocktail. The cocktail consists of a shot of alcohol, garnished with a dehydrated human toe.

It’s the Yukon.

The cocktail, if not the toe, has a long history. A rum runner bringing booze into Alaska from the Yukon, amputated his big toe after it was frostbitten, preserving the toe in a jar of alcohol. The abandoned/lost toe was found in an old trapper’s cabin by a riverboat captain decades later, and the cocktail officially became a novelty at the Sourdough Saloon in 1973.

The rules are quite simple: “You can drink it fast, you can drink it slow, but your lips have gotta touch the toe.” Also, if you swallow the toe, there is a fine of $2500. The fine for swallowing was only $500, but a man intentionally swallowed the toe in 2013, laid $500 on the bar, and promptly walked out.

The toe has been intentionally swallowed twice. In the 1990’s, the toe was stolen twice, but was returned both times.

The Royal Canadian Mounted Police confirmed Tuesday that officers were investigating the toe theft.

71,328 Sourtoe Cocktails have been served since 1973. Travelers in the Yukon can still order the Sourtoe, since the saloon has one backup toe. The cocktail will set you back $5.


Yukon Time

Whitehorse Rapids
Whitehorse Rapids, Yukon River circa 1898

“Geography has kept the Yukon to a slower pace, so that if I wasn’t exactly traveling backward in time, I often had the illusion of drifting more slowly in the present.”
—John Hildebrand – “Reading the River”


Early Breakup on The Yukon

Yukon River ice jam
Photo credit: Geographic Information Network of Alaska/Jessica Cherry

Residents of Eagle, Alaska are once again upstream of a significant ice dam on the Yukon River. The ice dam is at 6 Mile Bend, and that is causing water to back up over the banks near Eagle and Eagle Village. In 2009, a major ice dam caused severe flooding in Eagle, with many buildings being swept right off their foundations by huge chucks of river ice.

The Yukon River went out at Dawson City last Saturday morning, the earliest on record. With Tuesday’s ice movement at Eagle, that was within one day of the all time record for the ice going out at Eagle.


There are days…

yukon_river

…when the idea of homesteading off of a tributary of the mighty Yukon River, where there is no internet, phone service, mail service or any other form of immediate contact, seems like pure heavenly bliss.

Today turned into one of those days. Don’t be surprised if my phone battery refuses to take a charge in the very near future. It happens.


Miles Canyon, Yukon River

Steamer Clifford Sifton
The steamer Clifford Sifton shooting Miles Canyon circa 1900. Photo credit: Major James Skitt Matthews

“Through this narrow chute of corrugated rock the wild waters of the great river rush in a perfect mass of milk-like foam, with a reverberation that is audible for a considerable distance, the roar being intensified by the rocky walls which act like so many sounding boards. Huge spruce trees in sombre files overshadow the dark canyon, and it resembles a black thoroughfare paved with the whitest of marble.”

Frederick Schwatka


Weaving through the wildlife

Fairbanks, Alaska to Toad River, British Columbia

Caribou in the Yukon

A lot of wildlife on the Alaska Highway, and all of it came in various forms of big.
Between the snow, the ice, the slick roads, and the short days that have already descended on the Far North, I had enough on my mind as I traveled the Al-Can. Luckily, Nature has a way of adding to the mixture. I came across four moose standing on the roadway, and weaved my way around three of them. Then there were the half-dozen caribou licking the roadway just past Whitehorse. My favorite group, was the ever present herd of bison just north of Muncho Lake. The first beast was past the passenger door before I realized it wasn’t a boulder. Where there is one bison along the roadway, there is usually another 30 nearby. I was not disappointed to quickly come across the rest. The shaggy thugs were not even remotely impressed by my little car; they lounged in the road, on the shoulder, and for the most part refused to even acknowledge my presence as I wove my way through their bulk. Finally, just before I stopped for the night at Toad River in British Columbia, I came across a small herd of elk out for a stroll in the fresh snow. At least they had the decency to run/jog/saunter off of the road to allow me to pass freely.

Everyone of these encounters happened after the sun went down.

YT Caribou

This stubborn fellow did show himself in the light of our short day. A very nice bull caribou who came out to lick the roadway. Like the bison, he had no interest at all in moving out of my way, and as I passed him, he gave me the look that said. “Don’t even think of taking another photo of me.” Since I didn’t want my car door antlered, I agreed to his terms.

Does the Yukon DOT put salt out on the roads? I passed a gravel dispersing truck outside of Haines Junction that was going the opposite direction, and for the next kilometer or two, I had caribou coming out onto the roadway. They appeared to want to lick the road, but these were mostly cows and calves, and they chose to head right back into the trees when I approached.

One of the few herds I saw that I didn’t have to weave my way past. The horn sounds really tough.


Forget four wheel drive

Two plus days of this:

  
Adventure is driving a rear wheel drive sports car across the Yukon in November. 


Pierre of the North

This comic comes courtesy of Non Sequitur by Wiley via Oskaloosa


Galena vs. The Yukon

Galena AK 2 Galena Alaska

A 30 mile ice dam on the Yukon River has the little village of Galena under siege.  Most of the 500 residents have been forced to evacuate, as flood waters submerge buildings and lift homes off their foundations.

After several days of 80 degree weather, the front of the massive ice dam has begun to show signs of churning.  Once it releases, Koyukuk, which lies downriver, will be the next village at risk of flooding.

Photos courtesy of the National Weather Service