Tag Archives: Canada

Toad River

Toad River Lodge

Inside Toad River Lodge

The very first time I stopped at Toad River Lodge, I was filling the ’66 Chevy with gas, while watching a single engine airplane taxi down the Alaska Highway and stop in front of the Lodge.  The pilot and a passenger climbed out of the plane, and proceeded to go inside to have breakfast.  At that point, I knew I was heading in the right direction.

The Lodge’s quirk is the hats.  Stapled to the ceiling and any available wall space, are 4580 baseball caps of all shapes, sizes and colors.  Toad River lies in the beautiful Toad River Valley of Northern British Columbia.  Population 60.  Wildlife population: Slightly more moose, deer, sheep, bison, bear, mountain goats and caribou.

Toad River


Decking


Tok to Fairbanks

“We should have diverted.”


When I left Tok, the sun  was out, temps seemed warm and all was well with the world.  That changed within the first 50 miles of the 200 mile drive.  That’s when the rain came.  I had a client text me.  She was down in Arizona and had returned to the ‘Banks last night.  “Rain, snow, freezing rain, we could see 6″.  We should have diverted.”

I had been tempted when I arrived in Tok.  Say, Canada… mind if I come back in?

It was 33 degs in Fairbanks when I landed.  With rain and snow.  The first thing I did was start a fire in the woodstove.  The cabin was a balmy 40 degs.  The second thing I did was put the battery charger to the Beetle.

5856.8 miles from San Antonio to Fairbanks via Knoxville, Minneapolis and Tacoma.  I don’t count the little side trip to Pittsburgh, since The Rover was not a part of that trip.

 


Whitehorse to Tok, Alaska

yukon

I camped out at Wolf Creek, just south of Whitehorse for my extended stay.  A nice campground, already fairly full, no doubt due to the road closure.  It was also one of the few already up & running for the season.  Had two Germans camp next to me.  Not much for campfire skills, as they had the entire area filled with smoke.  The tent definitely has a nice woodsmoke scent to it now.

In British Columbia, there was an obvious push towards spring.  It was far greener than in the midwest of the U.S., and the trees were well on their way to leaves.  The Yukon and Alaska are still in hibernation.  No leaves, no buds, no green tint to the grass.  There is snow still, especially at any sort of elevation, and very little mercury rise.  It’s a bummer.  Talking to a native woman in Haines Junction, she made the comment that obviously “winter doesn’t want to let go.  It reminds me of a spring when I was a little girl, and we had no summer.”  I cried out, “Don’t even think such thoughts!”  When I left, she was still giggling to herself.  Highs in the thirties are forecast for the next two days in Fairbanks.

Once again, the border crossing was a breeze.  The woman was great, although she did ask for my registration because the front plate was “procured” by some ass in Montana.  In the end, she said to me, “Welcome home.”  In all my crossings, that was the very first time an agent at Port Alcan has said that.


Detour

AlCan Detour

Here is our detour around the washout.  They put us on an old section of the Alaska Highway, which has not been used in many years, but some asphalt was visible.  When I arrived at the detour, the pilot truck was just taking off, so I wasn’t able to stop for more info.  The woman who turned me around yesterday was there holding the flag.  She recognized me, and we both waved.  Since we came back out onto the highway well beyond the “issue”, I have no idea what happened or how severe it was.


Watson Lake to Whitehorse, YT

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Watson Lake to Whitehorse, YT

After topping fluids in front of the Air Force Lodge, it was a relatively uneventful drive up the Alaska Hwy. Very little wildlife to keep me entertained. A few caribou and a couple of fox.

Road construction and pilot trucks in the Yukon, no surprise there. A lot more snow than in BC, and daylight hours are already considerably longer. Temps are also quite a bit cooler.

My plans were to push on to at least Haines Junction and hopefully further, but Mother Nature had other plans. A bridge was seemingly washed out 50 miles from the junction of the Al-Can with the Klondike Hwy. Leaving me stuck on the Whitehorse side. Not much to be done. I had already looked into the Top of the World Highway, but the ferry across the Yukon isn’t in service yet, so that option isn’t in the cards either.

I hung out with several people at a nearby rest area for a while. There were several dogs around. Mostly labradors, but one guy had an extremely friendly Saint Bernard, that slobbered enough to cause another washout. A cool dog though.
Eventually, we all gave up for the day, and I backtracked to a campground I had passed.

Sometimes life just happens and all you can do is break out the scotch you’ve been hoarding.


Historic Air Force Lodge

For the most part I’ve been camping out on this trip, but I decided to splurge when I arrived in Watson Lake and rented a room at the Air Force Lodge.

Originally built in 1942 as a barracks for pilots flying during WWII, the building has been refurbished, although many of the barracks-like amenities are still to be found.

The owner is a blast, and we spent quite a bit of time talking Rovers, VW’s and life in the North.

A great place to stay along the Alaska Highway, and actually one of the least expensive.  Highly recommended.air-force-lodge


Pink Mountain, BC to Watson Lake, YT

Muncho Lake

Another long and interesting day on the road.  I had to open the heater valve at Toad River, due to the snow that was pelting me as I filled up the tank.  Luckily, the whiteout left just as quickly as it arrived.

I was happy to hit the Yukon, although it was trying at times to get there.  On the plus side, we had a cornucopia of wildlife for our viewing pleasure.  Another four black bear, countless caribou and big horn sheep, several moose and over a hundred bison.

There was one hill that looked like a bison nursery, with calves sprawled out in the grass among their mothers.  There were also a couple of lone bulls that just looked ornery, and damn are they big when you’re sitting eye-level to them in an aluminum box.  One simply stood in the middle of the road daring me to come a little closer.  I chose to wait until it crossed over to the shoulder.  I’m guessing a bull bison can outdo The Rover in a 0-60, although I was holding out hope that the bull was more of a mudder than a hard track runner.

Buff Crossing Bison Moose Caribou

I had to weave through sheep and caribou several times, but neither one of them could smash their head through the door quite like a bull bison.


See you on the other side

It’s time to enter the Wormhole. Hopefully, my good luck will hold out.


30th Yukon Quest Starts

2013 Yukon Quest Start

The Yukon Quest Sled Dog Race from Whitehorse, YT to Fairbanks, AK started today. The twenty-six mushers and their teams left Whitehorse in balmy 20 degree weather, which is a bit warm for the dogs, but great for the fans that lined up along the route.

The 1000 mile international race is touted as the toughest on earth, as it travels historic gold rush and mail delivery dog sled routes from the turn of the 20th Century.

Last year the Quest was won by Hugh Neff in 9d 16h 59m.

Photo by Jeff Richardson/Daily News-Miner